Category: Skill Development

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Skill Development – Basic Land Navigation

This is a very complex subject, but very simple in application, if you follow a few simple rules and have a basic understanding of how to read a map.

Map Terminology

  • Contour – Imaginary line on ground, all points of which are at the same elevation above or below a specific reference surface.
  • Coordinates – Linear and (or) angular quantities that designate the position of a point in relation to a given reference frame.
  • Declination – Magnetic declination is the angular difference between magnetic north and true (geographic) north at the point of observation; it is not constant but varies with time because of the “wandering” of the magnetic north pole.
  • Elevation – Vertical distance of a point above or below a reference surface.
  • Grid – Network of uniformly spaced parallel lines intersecting at right angles. When superimposed on a map, it usually carries the name of the projection used for the map, that is, Lambert grid, transverse Mercator grid, universal transverse Mercator grid.
  • Latitude – Angular distance, in degrees, minutes, and seconds of a point north or south of the Equator.
  • Legend – explanatory table of symbols used on a map or chart.
  • Longitude – Angular distance, in degrees, minutes, and seconds, of a point east or west of the Greenwich meridian.
  • Map – Graphic representation of the physical features (natural, artificial, or both) of a part or the whole of the Earth’s surface, by means of signs and symbols or photographic imagery, at an established scale, on a specified projection, and with the means of orientation indicated.
  • Orientation – Establishing correct relationship in direction with reference to points of the compass; the state of being in correct relationship in direction with reference to the points of the compass.
  • Overlay – Printing or drawing on a transparent or translucent medium intended to be placed in register on a map or other graphic and which shows details not appearing or requiring special emphasis on the base material.
  • Relief – Elevations and depressions of the land or sea bottom.
  • Relief shading – Technique for making topography on a map appear three-dimensional by the use of graded shadow effects. Generally, the features are shaded as though illuminated from the northwest.
  • Ridge – A spur of land that is higher than the land on either side.
  • Topography – Configuration (relief) of the land surface; the graphic delineation or portrayal of that configuration in map form, as by contour lines.
  • Triangulation – Method of extending horizontal position on the surface of the Earth by measuring the angles of triangles and the included sides of selected triangles.
  • Valley – A spur of land that is lower than the land on either side.

Tools of the Trade

Basic land navigation only requires three tools. A topographic map, a compass and a pencil or dry erase marker, if your map is laminated or sealed in plastic.

Finding your Grid Coordinates

All topographic maps have grid numbers listed on the top, bottom, and both sides. To find your grid coordinates you simply find the numbered line to the RIGHT of the grid square you are in. Then you find the numbered line on the BOTTOM of the grid square you are in and you can get the four digit grid coordinate which will give you the 1 km square area you are in. Remember you read the map RIGHT AND UP.

To get a more exact fix on your location you first break the two sides (from right to left and bottom to top) into ten equal parts each. To get the next set of numbers for your coordinates you first go from the right and figure out which of the ten parts you are in, then do the same from the bottom up. This will give you a six digit grid coordinate, which will give you your location within 100 meters. To get your coordinates within ten meters of your location you divide each of those ten square you mentally created in half, you would use either five for half way between those lines or zero for directly on a line. It takes practice, lots of practice to “eyeball” an eight digit grid coordinate but it can be done.

Orienting your map

To orient your map first lay your map on as level a surface as you can then find the North Declination line, usually located in or near the maps legend. Lay your compass on the map and line the edge of your compass up with the MAGNETIC NORTH line. Then simply turn your map until the North seeking arrow is pointing in the same direction as the Magnetic North Line on the map.

You can now use the compass to find a bearing to any terrain feature, road, building, or grid coordinates on the map.

Resection – finding where you are

First orient your map and look for a prominent terrain feature you can see to the LEFT of your location. Then find that terrain feature on your map. Place your compass on the map, with the edge of the compass running through the center of the terrain feature and draw a line back towards your vantage point.

Next find another terrain feature you can see to the RIGHT of your location. Find that terrain feature on the map, place your compass on the map with the edge running through the center of that terrain feature and draw another line backwards towards your vantage point.

Where the two lines cross is your location. You can now get the grid coordinates to your location.

Reading the Map – What does it all mean

The legend is going to tell you everything about the map except how to read it. Here are the two most important things to know.

Distance traveled – this is a huge one, as it is difficult to keep track of your location if you don’t know how far you have traveled. The best method that does not depend on anything battery operated is a pace count. You should know your pace count to distance traveled ratio, for example mine is 110 steps to 100 yards, walking normally. Now I can pace off 100 yards using 100 steps, learned this from golfing, but that is not my relaxed pace and that is what you need to know. Go to your local High school track and walk the 100 yards with a relaxed pace, now you know your number. Remember a mile is 1760 yards. A good practice is to carry a string of pace count beads, an easy way to manage your counts and you can make your own.

Contour lines – you know from the glossary what these are, and what they mean, but can you read them. The simplest way to look at it is, if the line curves toward a higher elevation, it is a valley. If the line curves toward a lower elevation, it’s a ridge. Best place to find water is in a valley. When contour lines are far apart, it is a gentle slope. When contour lines are very close it is a cliff or at least very steep. If the contour lines form a circle, it is either a peak or a pit, based on the elevation change.

Now that you have the basics, get out there and practice in a safe place, with limited risk. I found that going out to some local Orienteering events is a great way to become intimately familiar with a map and build your navigation skills.

as Always,

Stay Vigilant and Be Prepared

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Skill Development – Building a one match fire

OK, Let’s build a fire!

The most common mistake when trying to build a one match fire is not having all your supplies gathered before you strike a match.

 

Supplies consist of three types of wood: tinder, kindling and fuel wood.

  • Tinder is very brittle, dry wood that is roughly the diameter of pencil lead and about as long as the spread of your hand from thumb to pinkie. Longer is better than shorter. Get a good double handful – you know, when you put your hands together finger tips touching and thumbs touching, like when they are around your snoring partners neck – that much is perfect.
  • Kindling is dry wood that is roughly about the thickness of your thumb. Be sure to collect a double arm load, imagine you are hugging your mother, about that much will do nicely, but always err on the side of too much. You want long pieces, about the length of you forearm from your elbow to tip of your middle finger (a cubit). Be sure it is good and dry because you’ll want it to break rather than bend it.
  • Fuel wood is larger pieces of wood that are anywhere from the thickness of your wrist to the size of your thigh. It can be bigger but those tend to require tools for processing. It is simpler to get what you can process by hand. Try to get pieces that are about the same length as your kindling. The drier the better, but you can place fuel wood around your fire to help get it drier. You want to get a pile about knee-high ready before you start because you can always get more later.

Now that you have acquired all your supplies, you are ready to build your fire.

 

Building Your Fire

Always build your fires in a safe location, and on bare ground far from any structures or trees that may catch fire. You are trying to get warm and potentially cook food and boil water, not burn down the forest or your shelter. If you have rocks available, make a nice little fire ring about the same width as your forearm is long.

 

Start by placing your pile of tinder in the center of you fire ring (assuming you found some rocks). Fluff your tinder so that you have a little air underneath it. Now, you are ready for your match. Protect it from the wind and make sure the match is burning well before you move to the tinder. You can do this by holding the match with the head slightly below your fingers. Now push the match under the tinder and hold it there as long as you can. If your tinder was dry, it will readily start to burn. Once you have a flame, be sure to roll or fluff the tinder over the burning part so you get a good portion of it burning.

 

Now time for your kindling! Start with your smaller pieces and just slowly add them by laying them over the burning tinder. Try to add them in a reasonably symmetrical manner (balance is good but not required). You are going to get a lot of smoke during this part. This is a good thing because where there is smoke there is fire. Once you have a good fire going with your kindling, you’ll know this because the smoke will have died down significantly, you can start adding your fuel wood.

 

When you are adding fuel wood remember the triangle of fire; Fuel, Heat and Air. Be sure not to smother your beautiful fire, feed it slowly, and add any remaining kindling to aid it if you run into trouble.

 

If you follow these simple guidelines and practice you should have no trouble starting one match fires and being the hero of your group.

 

NW Tips

A couple of insights from here in the NW where it tends to be a tad wet…

 

If you are dependent on a fire every night, start your day by collecting some moss. There is almost always plenty to be found and be sure it is free from insects. Then place some under your hat and on top of your head. This makes great tinder and if you keep it under your hat all day it will be nice and dry by the time you build your fire.

 

Also, I have found that quite often it is difficult to find dry ground to build a fire. So you can use either a large flat rock or build a platform from wet deadfall. If you take a couple of large pieces of wet deadfall place them parallel about a foot apart, then place 4 or 5 pieces across these at a right angle. Add one more layer like this, again at a right angle. Build your fire, as normal, on top of this. Not only will your fire be easier to start, the platform you build will dry out from the heat and turn into fuel.

 

Now, get out there and do it!

 

 

As always,

Stay Vigilant and Be Prepared

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Skill Development

Good afternoon,

We here at NW survival tend to spend a lot of time talking about all the things you need to have in order to survive an adverse or emergency situation, either in the city or the wild. That means actual skill development may end up taking a back seat. This week I want to talk a bit about the importance of skill development.

The truth of the matter is that no matter what you have with you during times of stress, they are useless to you if you do not know how to use them. Even something as simple as a first aid kit may go unused without the proper skill set. If we don’t take the time to learn what the appropriate response is to any given situation, our other preparation is for naught.

So, we are going to start a series of posts dedicated to Skill Development, not equipment. Starting with the basics, how to start a fire. I can already hear the grumbles… “I know how to start a fire!! You are wasting my time.” But let me ask you this, when is the last time you built a fire with one match? OR When was the last time you built a fire with no matches?

Then we will talk about knots, followed by land navigation (both urban and rural), and many other skills that I consider basic.

 

As always,

Stay Vigilant and Be Prepared

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